Puglia is Italy’s south-easternmost region, the “heel” of the boot. It is bordered by both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, giving it one of the longest coastlines of any region in Italy. It is still largely untouched by tourists, with the exception of those passing through to take the ferry to Greece, or the Northern Italians who take time off in August to enjoy the beaches.
In the north is the Gargano peninsula, a massive forested promontory of dramatic, jagged limestone jutting out 40 miles into the Adriatic. It is known for its lovely beaches, intriguing grottoes, tall rock formations and the picturesque, tiny islands just off its coast. The region’s geography is quite diverse: most of Puglia is flat and agricultural, growing fruit, vegetables, and grain in its mild Mediterranean climate. But there are areas of low hills where vineyards, almond trees and olive groves flourish, and where there are some fascinating, and very old, hill-top towns, each with its own style of architecture, and intriguing centro storico (historic centre).
Puglia’s dessert grapes are the best in Italy, and it is also the country’s largest producer of wine as well as the source of most of its fish. The southern tip is rocky and dry, more Greek than Italian. Puglia has busy commercial ports, beautiful stretches of uncrowded beaches, and clear, azure waters. Its unique architectural form is the trullo, a type of conical whitewashed limestone hut constructed without mortar and believed to be of ancient origin. The trulli district extends from Alberobello (a UNESCO world heritage site) to Martina Franca in the Valle d’Itria, where they are found in villages and scattered about the landscape. Many have now been the subject of modernisation, and they make up a unique feature of the landscape.
As the gateway to the East, Puglia was for centuries a strategic province, colonized and invaded by every major power from the Greeks to the Spanish, with each ruling dynasty leaving its distinctive mark. The Baroque city of Lecce, often called the Athens of Puglia because of its beauty, is the legacy of the Spanish Hapsburgs. The ancient Greeks founded Magna Graecia in a string of settlements on the Ionian coast. The Roman Appian Way ends in Brindisi, where crusaders stopped off en route to the Holy Land. The Islamic influence of the Saracens can be seen in the Casbah-like quarters of many towns, especially in Bari. Under the Normans in the 11th and 12th centuries the Puglian Romanesque style of architecture originated, incorporating Norman, Byzantine, Saracenic and Italian decorative motifs. It was further developed and used extensively during the rule of Emperor Frederick II of Swabia from 1220–1250, giving Puglia its most distinctive architectural feature: over 30 imposing castles and cathedrals built in this style dominate the landscape.
This richness and historical diversity is mirrored in the food of the region. The influence of the Greeks is especially strong: lamb is the favoured meat, often spit roasted over rosemary or thyme branches. Orzata, or almond milk is a Spanish drink, while sweet cakes laced with honey have their origins in the Middle East. Fish and seafood dishes abound: zuppe di pesce, or fish soup; cozze arrancanate, mussels cooked with bread crumbs, garlic, oil, parsley and tomatoes; grilled rock mullet; ciambotto, a mixed fish sauce for pasta. There is an astounding assortment of antipasti, made from seafood, vegetables or the tender ham of Martina Franca. The region’s most distinctive pasta is orecchiette, little ear-shaped pasta often containing cheese or sauce. Many women make them by hand, and you can often see them in Bari, sitting in their doorways and shaping the pasta on wooden boards. Vegetables are the most popular ingredients for pasta sauces: fave e cicoria is a wonderful combination of pureed fava beans, chicory and olive oil. Puglia makes excellent cheeses, and desserts include mellone, a very sweet watermelon and cotognata, a mold made from quince.